| The earliest loggers in this area were
from Maine, employees of a Maine-based company called the Pomeroy Lumbering
Co. Their initial operation consisted of a small sawmill located on the
outlet of today’s Big Wolf Pond which they called Kitteridge Lake.
As was the custom in those early lumbering days when
transportation was largely undeveloped, they cut in a circle rarely more
than a three mile circumference surrounding the sawmill. When that source
was depleted, they moved the sawmill to another stand. Pomeroy moved from
Big Wolf to the virgin pine along Racquette Pond then called Lake Whitney
and later Lough Neagh, after a lake in Ireland. The clearing they left
behind would become some 40 years later, the site of our present village.
Maine lumbermen and later those from the Maritime
Provinces who were called “P.I’s” (Prince Edward Island) were considered
without equal as lumbermen. They were famous throughout the United States
for their ability and the knowledge of their peculiar tools and methods.
They were also considered reliable workmen who knew how to handle and axe or
a team of horses. Note: Many were hard working farmers and in the slack
season they would leave the women folk to milk the cows and do the necessary
chores and take to the woods to earn a few welcome dollars.
As a matter of interest, many readers will be
familiar with one of those”peculiar Maine tools” - a tool they called a
Peavey, named after its inventor, a blacksmith from Stillwater Maine.
According to Robert Pike in his anecdotal lumbering history entitled “Tall
Trees, Tough Men” , it was originally called a cant dog or cant hook and
was used for lifting and prying logs both in loading sleds and on river
drives. Pike tells us that “It originally consisted of a straight, heavy
handle, set into an iron socket that might or might not be pointed and
fitted with a swivel hook that had nothing to hold it in position and was
as likely to miss catching a log when a logger make a pass at it, as it
was to grab hold. In 1858 Joseph Peavey, a blacksmith at Stillwater,
Maine, was watching, through the cracks of a wooden bridge, the rivermen
working beneath him and swearing at their refractory hooks. Right then
and there Joseph had an idea that revolutionized the logging industry.
Returning to his blacksmith shop he made a rigid clasp to encircle the
cant-dog handle, with lips on one side. These lips were drilled to take a
bolt that would hold the hook, or dog, in place, allowing it to move up or
down but not sideways. It was a marvelous invention and it rolled
billions of feet of logs into American rivers, but Joe got drunk on his
way to get the thing patented and a friend stole the patent from him. It
is good to know, however, that regardless of patent ownership, he
manufactured his brain-child and did right well with it. The Peavey
gravestone in the Bangor Maine cemetery bears a large letter P crossed by
two beautifully carved peavies.”Note: A
peavey in excellent condition which was used in area river drives, part of
the late Greg Smith collection, has been gifted to the Tupper Lake Museum
Gallery by Greg’s brother, John.
The “Yankees” from Maine stayed in the Tupper
sector for only a short time. Maine, after all at the time, was the
leader in the logging business and while later many of the “Maine” men
would follow the receding pines westward to Pennsylvania, Michigan and
even Wisconsin and Minnesota there was plenty of opportunity in their home
state. Thus, when the arrival of the railroads here and the attendant
opening of the sawmills which catapulted Tupper Lake to the leading
lumbering capital in New York State, the labor force in the lumbering
business was locally make up of largely French Canadians. For example the
Santa Clara Lumber crews here for many years were at least three-fourths
French Canadians according to Ferris Meigs in his autobiography entitled “
The Santa Clara Company”.
In writing about French Canadians, Pike tells
us that “they often had more then a score of children in a family - and as
a result sometimes ran out of names and used numbers instead (he recalled
a Vingt - Six( Fr. 26) Gagnon from Three Rivers, Quebec). Frequently a
camp would not have a single English speaking lumberjack in it and in the
mornings, long before sunrise, the cry “Se Levez !Se Levez !” would echo
throughout the bunkroom.[C’est le heure a lever ,as I think my former
wonderful French teacher, Mrs. Austin, would have explained.]
By and large the Canucks, according to
historian Pike, were small, trim, quick men, fond of gay sashes and toques
and unsurpassed with an axe”. [Note to local readers - have you ever
called your woolen ski hat a “toque” and had a non-resident wonder to what
you were referring?] The axe was the French Canadian’s natural weapon and
they handled and practiced with it until they acquired unbelievable
dexterity. They could throw an axe at a running rat and split it in two,
or they could hurl it at a mark fifteen yards away and hit it three times
out of three”.
Many observers have claimed that the French Canadians
were the best river drivers, a dangerous and a very difficult skill and it
has been said that good rivermen were “born, not made”. Many had developed
their skills as youngsters on the rivers in Canada learning early how to
handle a pike pole and a peavey on the still waters of the mill booms so
common in many maritime villages. River drives were also common in this
area and until better transportation methods and the emerging market for
hardwood, which didn’t float, rendered such drives obsolete. The last river
drive occurred here in 1935 when jobbers like Gasper LaPorte, George
MacDonald and quick-footed river men like young Alex Reandeau among others,
drove logs from Whitney Realty lands down the Little Tupper outlet and I.P.
lands along Bear Brook and the Bog River and over the falls to Tupper Lake,
where they were towed down the lake to the mills located on Racquette Pond
or driven further down the Racquette River to other mills such as
Piercefield and Colton. As a youngster, I remember always being able to
recognize a lumberjack who was a river driver when they would” hit town”
after the completion of the spring drive. His wool “Malone or Ballard”
pants were always “stagged” or cut off above his boot tops and he walked
with a sort of swagger, a river man’s walk. Note:[Probably because river
drivers whose feet were immersed in cold water for hours on end would often
paint their feet with white lead and most camps would have a barrel of lard
near the door which the river driver could use to put inside his socks
before putting them on.] For many years many of the floors in the hotels of
my youth were pockmarked from the spikes in their boots, known as Croghans
which was where the best boots were made - a town now famous for it’s
bologna.. These boots were his badge. The spikes were core hardened and
resembled yesterday’s golf shoes and were called calks (pronounced corks)
River drivers lived in danger most of the time on the
drives especially when the dams were opened to flush the logs downstream and
mild rapids became wild raging torrents. Perhaps that was why river men
were known to be a feisty bunch with a confident, devil-may-care attitude.
One anecdote tells of a river driver going into Larry Rafferty’s Hotel
Altamont in this village where long time employee Jim Sullivan was tending
bar. Jim knew his customers and had a good sense of humor. As the story
goes, one day a fierce lumberjack strode into the bar and bellowed to Jim
“They tell me you’re the man who sells the stuff. All right, give me
some!” Jim just looked him over and made no haste to answer. The man went
on; I’m a son of a bitch from Black River and I want service”, said Jim
still polishing his bar top, “I knew you were a son of a bitch the minute
you opened your mouth, but I didn’t know you were from Black River.
To be continued in the next Transitions
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